Tbilisi 19–20 September 2026

Thank you for celebrating with us in Tbilisi.

We did the paperwork. Then we made it a party.

You came from all over the world, walked through an exhibition in an old substation, danced until late, climbed 144 stairs and watched the sun go down over the city with us. The weekend was everything we hoped for, and that is because of you. This page stays online as a keepsake of the program—and as our Tbilisi guide, for whenever you come back.

Black-and-white circular illustration connecting Ludo and Toto's life between Tokyo, Rome and Tbilisi through architecture, electronics, photography, music, travel and wine.

Not a traditional wedding. But much more.

There was no aisle, no seating chart and no need to dress formally. It was a vernissage celebrating our three years together in the city where our love sparked, which then turned into a party: a slightly quirky, very Tbilisian celebration of the journey, places, people and accidental connections that brought us here.

We met by chance under the sakura in Tokyo and made an exhibition together as friends. Years later, we started our relationship in Tbilisi and somehow ended up married in Rome. Tbilisi felt like the right place to celebrate our story and share it with all of you.

The weekend, as it happened.

Thu 17 September

From

Ludo's birthday icebreaker Very optional

Tsekhi Sasadilo

An easy first drink for everyone who was already in Tbilisi. Very optional, no pressure.

Open Tsekhi Sasadilo in Google Maps
Sat 19 September

The exhibition + celebration party

Mutant Radio

We began with an exhibition opening, art installations, drinks, food, friends and music: Wirescapes—our 2022 Tokyo collaboration—alongside photographs from Toto's forthcoming debut book, Scent of Time, and byLUDO's artistic pieces. Then the vernissage became the celebration party.

Open Mutant Radio in Google Maps
Sat 19 Night

From

The afterparty

Dedaena Bar

When Mutant Radio wound down, we moved to Dedaena and carried on with whoever was still standing.

Open Dedaena Bar in Google Maps
The warmly lit bar inside Dedaena, with a chandelier, plants and guests gathered beneath red light.
A live band performing beneath Dedaena's large red moon installation.
Dedaena's graffiti-covered exterior and terrace glowing orange at night.
Sun 20 Morning

From

The sulfur reset Optional

Abanotubani

An optional Tbilisi sulfur-bath reset for anyone awake, curious and ready for a warm-water recharge.

A tiled sulfur-bath room in Abanotubani with a circular warm-water pool and sauna.
The brick domes of Abanotubani's historic sulfur baths beneath Narikala Fortress.
Sun 20 Sunset

Sunset aperitivo

144 Stairs

A long, late aperitivo on a terrace above old Tbilisi. The approach is from Betlemi Street and, yes, it really is 144 stairs to climb—but the view and the food are worth every step. We gathered just before sunset for amazing small plates and drinks, watched the light go down over the city, and stayed on for one last evening of good conversations with wonderful people. Sunset is always better with some bubbles!

The iron-railed Betlemi stairs climbing past brick houses and carved wooden balconies in old Tbilisi.
The terrace at 144 Stairs on a sunny day, with red cushions, plants and a wide view over Tbilisi and the cable-car line.
Khinkali in a creamy sauce with two glasses of white wine on a terrace table above the Tbilisi skyline.

Wirescapes: Connected With the Urban Fabric

Before we became a couple, we made an exhibition together. Wirescapes began at a power plug and spread through UNTITLED SPACE, Toto's Tokyo studio, as a cable installation, urban photographs and salvaged technological materials. It explored the random connections that shape a city—and the ripple made by one small decision. If you know us, you can also see the fusion of our personalities in it: Toto's photography and Ludo's work with recycled materials, bringing two artistic souls together visually. Four years later, we brought Wirescapes to Tbilisi as part of the celebration of the connection that changed our lives.

See the original 2022 exhibition
Wirescapes installation at UNTITLED SPACE in Tokyo: photographs and salvaged electronic components connected across white gallery walls by a web of black cables.
01 Installation view, Tokyo, 2022
Ludo and Toto standing beside a Wirescapes mixed-media artwork at UNTITLED SPACE in Tokyo, surrounded by photographs and suspended cables.
02 Ludo + Toto with Wirescapes, Tokyo, 2022

Also on the walls

Scent of Time + byLUDO

Alongside Wirescapes, the exhibition included photographs from Scent of Time, Toto's forthcoming debut photobook.

Ludo also exhibited a selection of byLUDO recycled eco-tech pieces: wearable artworks made from electronic waste.

On the speakers

Tokyo to Tbilisi

The weekend was soundtracked by a few very dear DJ friends who came from Tokyo.

Spicy, not too formal.

The brief was something with personality—colour, texture, sparkle, a strange accessory, whatever felt like you. A party, not a gala, with shoes that could handle cobblestones, stairs and dancing, and a light layer for Sunday evening. You delivered.

A wide daytime view across central Tbilisi, the Kura River and the city's hills.
Tbilisi from above the old city.

Getting to Tbilisi.

Low-cost alternative

Kutaisi International Airport KUT

Kutaisi can be useful for low-cost European routes. The coach transfer to Tbilisi takes roughly three hours, but it is straightforward, comfortable and affordable—often around US$10. Book it in advance and check the current fare when purchasing. It can be a good option for guests coming from Rome and other European airports.

Before you fly

Entry

Most guests can enter Georgia visa-free for one full year. Check the official portal for your passport before flying.

Good to know.

Money + cards
Georgian lari (GEL, ₾). Visa, Mastercard and American Express are widely accepted, including on public transport. Most places are card-based, but carry a little cash as backup.
Time
UTC+4, with no daylight-saving change.
Getting around
When in doubt, use Bolt. Taxis booked through the app are convenient and generally inexpensive across the city. Public transport is also good: buses benefit from dedicated lanes, and the metro is useful for longer central journeys.Download Bolt: iPhone · Android
Mobile data
Local SIMs and eSIMs are easy to obtain after customs. Magti and Silknet/Geocell are good local options, and Airalo works equally well for a travel eSIM. Use referral code TOTO9017 for US$3 off your first eSIM, or open Toto's referral link .
Power
220V, Type C/F plugs. Guests from continental Europe are all set; visitors from the UK, Japan, US and other plug systems will need an adapter.
Emergency
Call 112 for police, ambulance or fire; free from any Georgian network.

Tbilisi, as of September 2026.

Hotels + weekend places.

Hotel suggestions are numbered to match the map.

1 Hotels V Weekend venues A Sulfur-bath area
Map of central Tbilisi showing the recommended hotels and confirmed weekend locations.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 V1 V2 V3 A
Hotel numbers match the list below; V1–V3 and A are the weekend venues. Base map © OpenStreetMap contributors.

Hotels to check out

  1. 1

    Chugureti · Social

    Fabrika

    Lively converted-factory hostel with private rooms, bars, food, creative shops and a sociable courtyard.

  2. 2

    Vera · Design

    Stamba Hotel

    Polished design stay in a converted publishing house, with a public courtyard, cafés, wine and cultural activity.

  3. 3

    Vera · Design

    Rooms Hotel Tbilisi

    Stylish design hotel next to Stamba and well placed for Vera's cafés and nightlife.

  4. 4

    Freedom Square · Reliable

    ibis Styles Tbilisi Center

    Four-star option beside Freedom Square and well placed for walking around Old Tbilisi.

  5. 5

    Sololaki · Central

    Gallery Palace Hotel

    Central Sololaki hotel close to Liberty Square.

  6. 6

    Sololaki · Small

    Magnolia Tbilisi

    Small central property on Kirile Ukleba Street. If you hear loud laughter, that's Toshi ;)

  7. 7

    Vera · Design

    Artizan Design Hotel

    Locally owned five-star design hotel on Iakob Nikoladze Street.

  8. 8

    Vera · Budget

    ibis budget Tbilisi Center

    Budget-oriented central option five minutes from Rustaveli metro.

Where we actually eat.

The map and matching lists gather our shared edit for the days around the party. Hours, programmes and door policies change—check the current listing before setting off.

E Eat + drink S See + wander N Nightlife B Beyond Tbilisi · list only
Codes match the three lists that follow: E for eat + drink, S for see + wander, N for nightlife. On smaller screens, scroll the map sideways; every recommendation has its own Google Maps link in the list. Base map © OpenStreetMap contributors.
  1. E1

    Cafe Daphna

    Minimalist, approachable khinkali restaurant.

    Georgian

  2. E2

    Wine Factory N1

    A cluster of restaurants and wine spots; Shushabandi and Veriko are our picks inside.

    Wine · Georgian

  3. E3

    Craft Wine Bar

    Georgian and natural wines with a strong food selection.

    Wine

  4. E4

    Khash-Khash

    Straightforward, unpretentious Georgian cooking.

    Georgian

  5. E5

    Shavi Lomi

    Traditional Georgian food with a small modern edge.

    Georgian

    TipReserve ahead.

  6. E6

    Chveni

    Very good Georgian fusion.

    Georgian

  7. E7

    Tsekhi area

    Friend-run food and social cluster. Sasadilo is the fusion-food pick; White Rabbit is an extreme-sports bar with an edge. Plenty of the other spots are good too.

    Hangouts

  8. E8

    Lolita

    Relaxed outdoor brunch and drinks opposite Stamba.

    Coffee + daytime

  9. E9

    Mafshalia

    Chaotic, inexpensive Samegrelo basement diner—for guests who value character over polish.

    Georgian

  10. E10

    Puri Guliani

    Café, bakery and easy daytime stop.

    Coffee + daytime

  11. E11

    Keto & Kote

    Recently a little touristy, but still good food and a cosy backyard.

    Georgian

    TipSit outside.

  12. E12

    Rachis Ubani

    A useful Georgian dinner option.

    Georgian

  13. E13

    Farina Tbilisi

    Good pizza—Ludo says so.

    Pizza

  14. E14

    Coffee LAB · Vera

    Good coffee and a comfortable place to work.

    Coffee + daytime

  15. E15

    Coffee LAB · Saburtalo

    The roomier remote-work pick. Tbilisi is very friendly to anyone crazy enough to work during the trip.

    Coffee + daytime

  16. E16

    8000 Vintages

    Library-like selection from small Georgian producers.

    Wine

    Toto's tipBook ahead for aperitivo.

  17. E17

    Warehouse at Stamba

    Natural wine from Georgia and elsewhere, suited to sharing a bottle; Stamba's public courtyard is also good for meeting people.

    Wine · Hangouts

  18. E18

    Fabrika

    Public courtyard with food, drinks, creative shops and an easy place to meet people.

    Hangouts

  19. E19

    AgroHub Sanapiro

    Ludo's favorite 24-hour supermarket. Upstairs, Tsiskvili Terrace is an amazing Georgian restaurant with panoramic city views.

    Georgian

Walk, look, wander.

The S pins on the map above.

  1. S1

    Lower Old Tbilisi / Meidan + upper Sololaki

    Pre-Soviet neighborhoods worth exploring on foot.

  2. S2

    Narikala + Mother of Georgia

    Classic hilltop route with strong city views and several ways to walk back down.

  3. S3

    Turtle Lake–Mtatsminda trail

    The full trail takes roughly three to four hours. Turtle Lake alone is easy to reach by cable car from Vake.

  4. S4

    National Botanical Garden

    Inexpensive ticketed garden and a quieter green route from Old Tbilisi.

  5. S5

    Abanotubani + Chreli Abano + Leghvtakhevi

    Sulfur-bath district and canyon walk—and the setting for our Sunday morning reset.

  6. S6

    Dry Bridge Market

    Open-air flea market known for Soviet-era objects and ephemera.

  7. S7

    Tbilisi Free Walking Tours

    A useful introduction for first-time visitors, meeting at Pushkin Park by Freedom Square.

  8. S8

    Gabriadze Theater

    Toto's favorite: a distinctive adult-oriented puppet theater.

    Toto's tipTickets can be difficult, so book early.

  9. S9

    Georgian National Museum

    Especially the pre-Christian gold collection.

  10. S10

    Open Air Museum of Ethnography

    Regional Georgian houses in a park-like setting.

  11. S11

    Artarea

    Exhibition space worth checking when a show is open.

  12. S12

    Rustaveli Avenue

    The main central avenue and a useful orientation point—although not one of our favorite parts of the city, and currently one long trench (see the roadworks heads-up).

Dance and stay out.

The N pins on the map above.

  1. N1

    Dedaena Bar

    Part of the wedding weekend; the surrounding park is also good for a casual drink.

  2. N2

    Mutant Radio

    Compact open-air radio bar and pre-club stop—and our main Saturday venue.

  3. N3

    Meteor Studio

    Electronic club; check its current programme before going.

  4. N4

    Bassiani

    Internationally known large techno club.

  5. N5

    KHIDI

    Another major techno club.

  6. N6

    Left Bank

    Event-dependent mix from electronic music to live bands, with younger DJs outside.

  7. N7

    Mtkvarze

    Established club that remains one of our personal picks.

Georgian food to try.

Georgian meals are built for sharing: dishes land in the middle of the table and everyone digs in, so order for the table, not per person. Three things run through almost everything—walnuts, fresh herbs and garlic—and the wine has been made here for about 8,000 years, often in buried clay vessels called qvevri.

A note for the allergic among you: traditional Georgian cooking uses practically no shellfish, anchovies or truffle (a few trendy spots add truffle oil to khinkali—ask first). Cheese is usually cow's or buffalo milk, though goat cheese does turn up—ask if it matters. Walnuts and fresh coriander are everywhere.

marks dishes that are vegetarian as served; marks dishes that are usually meat-based but commonly available in a vegetarian version—ask for it.

  • Khinkali

    The famous dumplings. Hold the topknot, bite a small hole, slurp the broth—no cutlery, and nobody eats the doughy handle. The canonical filling is pork and beef (city-style adds coriander); vegetarian versions come with potato, mushrooms or cheese.

    porkcoriandervegetarian version available

  • Khachapuri + lobiani

    Cheese-filled and bean-filled breads. The boat-shaped Adjarian khachapuri with the egg on top is the photogenic one; Imeretian is the everyday round. Pork-avoiders: the Rachuli style of lobiani adds ham.

    vegetariandairy

  • Georgian salad

    Tomato, cucumber and onion; the western Georgian version blends in walnuts, and it often arrives under a handful of fresh coriander.

    vegetarianwalnutscoriander

  • Mtsvadi

    Grilled pork skewers, ideally over vine embers, served with raw onion and pomegranate. Veal and chicken versions exist at most places.

    pork

  • Mchadi with sulguni + chvishtari

    Cornbread with Georgian cheese; chvishtari bakes the cheese right in.

    vegetariandairy

  • Pkhali

    Vegetable and walnut pâtés—usually spinach or beetroot—bound with garlic and herbs, dotted with pomegranate seeds.

    vegetarianwalnutscoriander

  • Gebjalia

    Rolled fresh cheese in a cool mint-and-dairy sauce. A Samegrelo specialty, and blessedly coriander-free.

    vegetariandairy

  • Shkmeruli

    Chicken in a rich garlic-and-milk sauce, served volcanic in a clay pan. The bread is for the sauce.

    chickendairy

  • Ajapsandali

    Chunky eggplant, pepper and tomato stew, heavy on the herbs—Georgia's answer to ratatouille.

    vegetariancoriander

  • Badrijani nigvzit

    Fried eggplant rolls with walnut-garlic paste and pomegranate.

    vegetarianwalnutscoriander

  • Lobio

    Slow-cooked beans in a clay pot with herbs and spices; comes with mchadi and pickles. A vegetarian staple.

    vegetariancoriander

  • Satsivi

    Chicken in a cold, silky walnut sauce—a festive classic.

    chickenwalnuts

  • Chakapuli

    Lamb or beef stewed in white wine with heaps of tarragon and sour plums. The greenest stew you will ever meet.

    coriander

  • Churchkhela

    The candle-shaped “Georgian Snickers”: strings of walnuts dipped in thickened grape juice. Sold everywhere, and a great edible souvenir.

    vegetarianwalnuts

If you stay a little longer.

  1. B1

    Rooms Hotel Kazbegi, Stepantsminda

    Book a mountain-view room and wake early for sunrise.

  2. B2

    Mtskheta

    The base for a classic day trip outside Tbilisi.

  3. B3

    Jvari Monastery

    Part of the classic Mtskheta day trip.

  4. B4

    Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

    Part of the classic Mtskheta day trip.

  5. B5

    Kakheti wine region + Sighnaghi

    A full-day escape for vineyards, qvevri cellars, tastings and the hill town of Sighnaghi. A guided tour is the easiest option if everyone plans to drink.

Back to the guide index

The guest WhatsApp group stays open.

Share your photos and videos from the weekend there, and keep in touch with everyone you met.

Open the guest WhatsApp group

On a computer? Scan this code with your phone.

QR code for the Ludo and Toto guest WhatsApp group

Want to reach us directly?

You can always reach either of us by phone or WhatsApp.

Ludo and Toto in their wedding clothes, smiling at each other on a rooftop overlooking Rome.

Rome 6 June 2026

We did the paperwork. Then we made it a party.